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Thanks for the belated review. I think I'd rather wait until Woodcraft has their Woodriver planes on sale. The Woodriver planes seem to be better made, require less work to set up, and include some additional features that, while not essential, makes using the planes easier.

Looks quite nice and the depth adjustment is an improvement over the classic planes. The iron looks nice and thick. And, well - a lot of hand planes need a bit of fussing for the side-to-side adjustment with a brass or even a small tack hammer. No big thing. I have Jorgensen clamps with the old wooden handles, and some new ones with the plastic handles. It's all good.

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Wouldn't we all like a tool if it were sent to us for free. My theory is that if companies didn't hand out free stuff to their hucksters on UA-cam and other social media outlets, the rest of us proletarians would reap the benefit of lower prices.

Thanks! Very clear!

Thank you!

I’ll stick w/LN. 😃

They ought to be really good, they’re more expensive than Lie-Nielsen planes.

I'd love these also if they sent them to me; especially with the extra irons.

Thank you Sir 🎉

Crap, I need a shooting board to make my shooting board!

Where are the tools manufactured?

My brother, quite knowledgeable about planes, very complementary of your review. Listed the various plane iron names: Common, York, Middle, Half, for 45, 50, 55, 60 degrees respectively. Looking forward to your future posts.

Amen. Simple is best, in my opinion. It's the craftsman, not the tool.

We learnt this at woodwork class in school 50 years ago

i cant understand how the cutting blade doesnt shave down the side of the shooting board as it works the end grain

how could it be but that's impassible 😂

I'm wondering if Mineral Spirits could be used in lieu of turpentine? Seems they do the same thing - thin things. I just hate to buy another long lasting product to store if I don't have to. I'm liking the boiled linseed oil and I'd like to try adding the beeswax

I have an old 9" Ryobi BS903 that I use every once in a blue moon for trifles and I hate to say it but I never adjusted the stops. Needless to say I could never cut a straight line or follow a pattern because the blade would twist. Maybe that's why I rarely used it. After watching this video I adjusted the stops accordingly and was able to cut a very asymmetric pattern to make a replacement insert for a water rotted sill. Top notch instruction. Thank you!!!

Wow, and when do I use this?

That was elegant.

Great series. Lots of great tips. Thank you.

Thank you, Randy! This was an awesome series. Thank you for all the little pro hacks for people (like me) who do not have lots of equipment. Like the sandpaper trick, and the planer length tip.

Sometimes they loosen when sawing a clamped workpiece. Then you have to stop and retighten. Any tips on preventing them from loosening?

Thank you!

That works on paper. Not so much on the end of a rod or dowel. Thanks though it will work in some situations. Kind regards.

A shooting board and an expensive one use plane.

Got dx60 for everyday use, excellent ergonomics and build quality.

Would u happen to know the formula for the old school way of staining with tobacco & ammonia? Please. Im looking for the formula and what not to do cuz I know ammonia isn't good for wood

Thank goodness there is no riving knife on that table saw. Shows that us old timers can work safely without all the "soft" accommodations for today's makers

thats really cool. thank you

Two skinheads at a Tom Robinson Band gig, aftet they've played "Glad To Be Gay" for the third time; one says to the other "Are you sure we're at the right Tommy Robinson gig?"

Thanks for posting this. I have a large stand of hornbeam which would be great to monetise for something other than firewood.

during the last 30 years working, i used 3 differents planer: a 24 inchs POITRAS, the 12 inchs NORDIQUE and now i used the Dewalt DW735. I really enjoy the last one for many reasons: the chip ejector, the precise thickness and the good quality. I highly recommend the Dewalt DW725 with no doubt !

I've had one for over ten years now. It's great; but, as you said, one needs to heed the restrictions of the machine. It doesn't like to go too deep into the wood, lots of stall there. It is completely worth the money (but, again, I bought it many years ago and straight from the company store at Stanley in New Britain, CT). It has performed very well and the only thing I've needed to replace so far are knives. I wouldn't try to get them sharpened as most sharpening services will charge up to 85% of the cost of replacement blades. I've been too cheap to but on a helical cutter head, but I hear great things...

I just did 4 hatchet scales, and never touched my router. Cut with bandsaw, rough files, and then my sanding station. That's the nice thing about woodworking, there's so many ways to get there.

I have this book and there are some really interesting projects in it.

Thank you for your knowledge!!:)

This video is a waste of time. The biggest thing anyone should know about block planes is that they were designed for people who work on site, and not in a shop. They need a plane that they can carry in their toolbelt, and they only need it to trim a little wood for fitting things that had already been built in a shop. Block planes are meant to be carried around, otherwise, they are inferior to a smoothing plane for every task because their ergonomics are not as good as a bench plane. If you work in your shop, and don't do any field work, you don't need a block plane. And if you do field work, you want to get a block plane that is light, and compact, so it is easy to carry in a belt or apron. The boutique brands are all heavy as a brick because they completely misunderstand what they are needed for. Mechanical adjustment is easier to set and reset quickly on the fly. But anyone who is experienced with adjusting a plane with a hammer may prefer one without a mechanical adjuster because they are lighter. The tool is meant to trim drawer bottoms and cabinet door edges when you are installing them in the field. So, consider the maximum width of material you use for those parts, and you'll probably select a narrower block plane over a wider one. And don't argue that low angle block planes cut end grain better because they really don't. I have tested it myself, and I've seen tests done by many others, and they all agree. The chances are very likely that you will buy a block plane and only use it when you tell yourself that you should use it every once in a while, because you feel bad for spending the money on it.

Thanks!

I have been enjoying mine.

I tried a new Stanley 60 1/2. It was junk! The sole wasn’t close to flat, concave, no such luck, it was convexed!! Next, the blade back was no flat,, nor was the bed. Sanded everything for hours, flatten the sole, never again! Flatten the blade, sharpen it and now what? The blade advanced crooked! No amount of blade adjustment worked, not even hammer taps helped. Complete piece of junk. Do yourself a large favor and avoid the hardware store Stanley . Totally lacking in even basic quality, fit, finish and functionality. Never again.

thank you sir very helpful

Thanks for the video

Use a putty knife to cut a sheet into thirds then fold that into fourths and you’ll have a smaller piece that’s more flexible for corners.

me watching this knowing i will rip a random part off the sandpaper whenever i need it

Food Safe always makes me chuckle. You could finish a bowl with polyurethane and eat from it for a thousand years. What would happen to you? Nothing. "FOOD SAFE" just sells finishes.

I just looked at these at Lowe's. $35. I picked it up and wow, noticed how heavy it was. That impressed me. I may get one.

thanks. nice, simple to the point review. at <$16 most of us just wanted to know if it's a piece of junk. I was surprised how nice it was for its price point. my bed happened to be 99% perfect but the blade took a very little bit of fussing. It took a few minutes to find it's sweet spot but for quick trims, end grain and scribes I'll keep it in my side pouch so it's always there for surprise uses if I don't bring anything else. In a case of some preparation and some luck I was pulling off paper thin glass like shavings from a 4" dia 300yr old Yew branch as if it's was a spoke shave. Feels like glass, not a single dent

Great tips! Thanks